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Climbing & Bouldering in Teutoburger Wald (Dörenther Klippen) Email
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Friday, 25 April 2008 11:26

(Dörenther Klippen)Germany - Just a few kilometres per car north of the city Münster lies the beautiful Teutoburger Wald forest. It stretches over many miles of terrain, from Lower Sachsony to North-Rhine-Westphalia state, and is home to plenty of outdoor sports such as hiking and mountain biking. It also attracts many tourists and weekend walkers who take advantage of the limitless amounts of trails that the forest has to offer. As luck would have it, the forest is also home to a number of great climbing routes and some fantastic boulder problems.


The Dörenther Klippen area can be found between the towns of Dörenthe and Ibbenbüren. It contains 15 sectors with over 100 routes. Parking can be found along the B219 and K24 allowing access from both sides of the area. Hidden well between the plethora of paths are a few select sandstone rock formations waiting to be climbed. A large amount of the fragile eco-system is under the country's nature conservation program, so all visitors, not just climbers, should definitely take care when entering any of the areas. It goes without saying, just as in all climbing locations, that waste should not be left behind and that the environment should be treated with respect.

This way please!


There is a topograph for the area and it is advisable to get your hands on it as finding the routes and navigating through the woods can be quite confusing (Lüke & Schepers, “Rocks Along the way of old Hermann”). Teuto is home to some very interesting greenish sandstone which, under the right conditions offers excellent grip and friction. For beginners the forest offers a very good starting point for learning the ropes (pardon the pun) to leading outside. Sectors such as “Hockendes Weib” and “Dreikaiserstuhl” are perfect for this. There are plenty of easy and interesting routes in the lower grades, from easy-going UIAA 6s to harder 7s for the more ambitious lead climber. Hard movers may, however, be disappointed by the lack of tough routes. There are only a handful of climbs in the 8s and 9s but these are worth checking out and can be found in the “Schinder” sector of the “Dreikaiserstuhl”. Banane (8+) and its variant Banane ohne Rampe (10-) are the best test pieces of the forest. Right next to these are Hexe (9-) and Alien (9), two very powerful routes, the latter with a very athletic crux which is tough for the grade.

Sector Schinder: Hexe 9-


The area also provides plenty of options for bouldering. Many problems are traverses along the bottom of the climbing routes, some of them defined. Along the path are also free standing blocks which can be bouldered on, but require a keen eye or local knowledge to find. I spent a good deal of my time bouldering here, and there are some real gems to be found far off the beaten paths, combing a mix of powerful roof problems and tricky traverses, from Fb 5a up to 7c.

Because of the forests status as a nature reserve the use of chalk is forbidden in almost all sectors, so one should bring along a small piece of cloth to wipe those sweaty hands. It is also advisable to check the weather forecast before setting out on a trip as the whole region is prone to high levels of precipitation. The rock tends to absorb water which then trickles and seeps out of cracks, sometimes many days after the last rain fall. Hot summers can also be bad with the foliage and underbrush creating a tropical climate of sorts, making climbing neigh impossible under moist and humid conditions.

Bouldering at the Sphinx


All in all, the Teutoburger forest offers a suitable alternative to other climbing sites in the near and far vicinity, and definitely has some great routes and a number of fantastic boulder problems. Because of the parks nature reserve status, it hasn’t received much attention from dedicated climbers, which is a shame since it has a lot of potential.

Useful link: Teutoburger Wald topograph

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Matt   |81.132.123.xxx |2008-08-10 20:05:52
Hi. Thanks for the info! Currently live in Sheffield and climb regularly in the
peak, but there's a chance I'll be moving to Osnabruck with the missus and baby
next April. Been looking for advice on the local climbing and it sounds alright.
Do you live near this area?
Matt
Dru  - Osnabrück   |85.177.80.xxx |2008-08-11 01:55:04
Hi Matt,

yeah if you zoom out on the Google Maps application you'll see that
Osnabruck is only a couple of miles away from the climbing areas in the forest.
Both the North and South parts have plenty of crags. Your best bet for actual
info is to pick up the local area guide book which I posted under useful links
in the article above (they just updated the new version this year). It has all
the crag approaches and difficulties listed (however it's all in German I
believe). Climbing is mostly in the UIAA 6 - 7 (so around French 6a-6c). There's
a ton of bouldering but you need to know the right people to find the blocs. The
closest climbing hall to Osnabrück is in Münster which is 25 miles South, but
since you live right next to the crags I wouldn't bother. I don't live in the
area anymore (London). It's nothing close to the Peak, but it also has a lot of
great stuff and a good mix of bouldering a climbing. If you have any oth...
Matt  - re: Osnabrück   |92.252.22.xxx |2010-08-09 17:43:03
Hi

Not sure if you'll read this, but I'm living in Westerkappeln now, near to
Teuto. I'm a bit stuck for partners so I don't suppose you're back in the area
and want to climb?

Cheers

Matt

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